A guide for non-collectors

No single indicator can determine whether a sword blade is a recent vintage or antique. The blade should be examined in its entirety and not on a single criteria. Never attempt to disassemble a sword not unless you know how. You can end up severely injuring yourself or damaging your sword. Here are suggestions to determine if it’s a real Japanese sword or a modern replica.

#1
Is it a real sword or modern replica or an iaito (iai practice sword)?

There are modern replicas and iaito that have aluminum blades. When in doubt, use a magnet to check the blade. Steel is magnetic while aluminum is not. When the blade is not magnetic then it is not a real sword and obviously not an antique. Aluminum is not magnetic. On the contrary, just because the blade is steel does not necessarily mean it is a real Japanese sword given that many modern replicas are made of steel blades.

#2
Is there visible grain or hada in the steel of the blade?

A majority of handmade Japanese swords have a visible grain in the steel of the blade. This is a result of the method of forging the blade using multiple folds. Most beginners have difficulty recognizing the grain or hada. There are old sword blades that have no visible grain or muji hada; however, the presence of grain does most certainly mean the blade is handmade. Grain doe not determine age. Many of the better WW II era swords will show prominent grain or hada.

#3
Does the blade show a true temper line or hamon?

Replica swords and many WW II era machine made swords have an etched temper line, not a true temper line (hamon) made by differential tempering of the blade. You can examine the hamon with the use of a magnifying glass. A real hamon will show tiny dots or specks (nioi and nie) along and between the border of the hamon and the rest of the blade. An etched temper line will appear as smooth cloud lacking any internal features.

#4
Is the blade sharpened all the way to the base where it joins the hilt?

Most WW II era blades are not sharpened all the way to the habaki or collar. Older (Shinshinto) swords may also be unsharpened down to the habaki; however, most WW II swords were not. If the blade is not sharp all the way to the habaki does not mean it is a WW II era blade but a good indicator.

#5
Can you see rusted tangs on the sword?

If the peg (mekugi) and the handle can be safely removed then examine the tang (nakago) to determine the age of the blade. The peg is the screw holding the handle (tsuka) on the blade. Note that some swords may have two mekugi, one near the guard and the other near the end of the hilt. Always check but never use force to remove the handle. Older swords will have more rusted tangs from brown to smooth deep black rust for the oldest swords.

Newer swords will have a grey, metallic tang perhaps with a little red rust. They also show file sharp and crisp marks on the tang. As the tang rusts and ages, they become progressively smoother and less distinct.

Here is a very IMPORTANT advice: NEVER CLEAN THE TANG OF A JAPANESE SWORD OR TAMPER WITH IT IN ANY WAY. You don’t want to reduce its value by at least 50 percent. The type and color of the rust are used to authenticate the date and the blade itself.

#6
Is the tang (nakago) signed?

It is a misconception to believe that if a sword is signed then it must be handmade. It is completely false. During the WW II era, many machine made blades were signed as a way to give more prestige to the sword despite being machine made. The opposite is also not true; if a sword is not signed does not mean it is machine made. There are many unsigned antique blades left unsigned or have had their signatures (mei) lost over time. The appearance of a sign has little to do with determining if it is handmade or to know the age of the blade.

The suggestions above does not in any way replace professional advice on Japanese swords. This is a general guide. When any doubts exists as to the authenticity or age of a Japanese sword, we recommend to seek advice from a reputable collector.

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